L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
The gold-standard brightening antioxidant — if you nail the formulation (pH under 3.5, 10-20%, ferulic acid present, opaque airless packaging), it is one of the most clinically supported topical actives in skincare.
Verified Beauty Data / The record
Every number on this site traces to a primary source — lab data, the EU CosIng register, or a brand disclosure stated plainly. Every verdict is backed by aggregated consensus, not affiliate incentives. Browse the library three ways.
The working ingredient in a skincare product is a commodity. Vitamin C is vitamin C; niacinamide is niacinamide. What differs between a $9 serum and a $90 one is usually not the molecule but the concentration, the packaging, and the margin — and the industry has arranged things so you cannot easily tell which. Most brands do not print how much of the active is in the bottle, and the ones that do rarely make it easy to compare.
So we do the comparison. For every active we cover, we read the primary literature and record what concentration actually works, at what pH, with what evidence behind it, and who should avoid it — each claim linked to a specific study, verified against PubMed before it ships. For every product, we take the published INCI list, match each ingredient against the EU CosIng register, confirm the active is genuinely present and high enough in the list to matter, and compute the price per gram of the active. That last number is the one the marketing never gives you, and it is the whole point: it converts "expensive" and "effective" from synonyms back into two separate questions.
The result is 44 actives, 125 products with verified ingredient lists, and 41 dupe reports that ask one question — is the cheap one actually the same formula? — and answer it with the labels rather than with vibes. Sometimes the answer is no. The reports say so, because a dupe verdict that always finds a dupe is worth nothing.
We also publish what the evidence doesn't show. Where a benefit is in-vitro only, where a trial was small or funded by the manufacturer, where a heavily marketed botanical turns out to sit near the bottom of the ingredient list at a fraction of a percent — the page says so. The honest caveats are the product, not a disclaimer. The full method, and the limits of what label data can tell anyone, are on the methodology page; who is responsible for it is on the author page; and everything we have got wrong so far is in the corrections log.
★ / Tools & data
The data layer no one else publishes — every active priced, every brand graded, any label decoded.
The Actives Index
The cheapest effective dose of each active — and how far the price of the same molecule stretches.
Open the index →The Disclosure Scorecard
We graded the brands on whether they publish their active concentrations — or make you guess.
See the grades →The INCI Decoder
Drop any product's ingredient list in and we pull out the actives that actually do something.
Decode a list →01 / Browse by concern
Each concern maps to the verified actives and formulas with real data behind them.
Dullness, dark spots, uneven tone — the actives and formulas with evidence behind the glow.
Free-radical and photodamage protection — what genuinely shields skin, sourced from the literature.
Collagen support and fine-line work — the ingredients with the deepest clinical record.
Breakout and congestion — the OTC monograph actives (benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, adapalene) alongside the soothing and barrier work that decides whether you can tolerate them, every claim sourced.
Moisture retention and barrier support — the humectants that pull water into skin and the lipids that keep it there, with what the evidence actually shows for each.
Calming reactive, rosacea-prone and easily-irritated skin — the soothing and barrier-supporting actives with evidence behind them, every claim sourced. Soothe-and-support, not a substitute for medical rosacea or eczema care.
Restore and strengthen a compromised or dehydrated moisture barrier — the barrier lipids, humectants and soothers with evidence behind them, every claim sourced. A support-and-restore layer, not a substitute for medical eczema or dermatitis care.
Smooth rough, bumpy texture and soften the look of enlarged or clogged pores — the exfoliating acids, retinoids and oil-regulating actives with evidence behind them, every claim sourced. You can refine pores’ appearance, but you can’t shrink them permanently.
02 / Dupe Reports — the series
Each report ranks every dupe ingredient-by-ingredient against the original. New numbers ship as we verify them.
7 formulas ranked ingredient-by-ingredient against the $185 original. Patent expired; the winner costs $9.99.
Read the report →Phloretin barely exists in affordable skincare. 7 formulas ranked against the $185 oily-skin original.
Read the report →Cheap commodity acids in a $90 bottle. The brand collapsed. 7 formulas ranked against the original — the winner costs $24.
Read the report →1% retinol in a squalane base — the $76 price was the brand. 6 formulas ranked; No7 replicates the same active and signal peptides for $39.
Read the report →SPF filters are commodity. The 5% niacinamide is the moat. 6 formulas ranked — DRMTLGY keeps both zinc + niacinamide for $32 vs $41.
Read the report →The Miracle Broth ferment cannot be sourced — no one can dupe it. But the occlusive base is commodity: Nivea Crème seals the same barrier for $5 (a 50x price cut per mL). 5 formulas ranked against the $210 original.
Read the report →TFC8 is patented — no brand can source or replicate it. The base emollients are commodity: Vanicream matches them for $15. 5 formulas ranked against the $290 original. Honest verdict: there is no dupe.
Read the report →L'Oréal owns SkinCeuticals and the proxylane patent — and uses the same molecule (Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol) in a $25 drugstore eye cream. 4 formulas ranked against the $113 original. Real dupe: L'Oréal Revitalift Triple Power Eye.
Read the report →The 22-botanical Phyto Radiance Infusion (21-day cold-process) cannot be replicated — the moat is breadth plus process, not one active. 5 formulas ranked against the $195 original. Honest verdict: there is no dupe. Closest pick: Herbivore Phoenix (9 of 22 botanicals, $58).
Read the report →A $60 cult lactic-acid treatment whose acid sits 8th on the INCI — below 7 botanicals — at an undisclosed percentage. The Ordinary states 10% lactic acid on the label for $9. 2 disclosed-strength dupes ranked against the original; the glow is emollients, the value is honesty.
Read the report →Pitera is galactomyces ferment filtrate — a yeast filtrate SK-II markets at an undisclosed % for $100+. MIZON discloses 94.5% of the same active for $23. 2 ferment essences ranked against the original. Honest verdict: the active is the same class; the premium is the ritual.
Read the report →ANR's hero is Bifida Ferment Lysate — a probiotic ferment at an undisclosed % marketed as "ChronoluxCB." Missha Time Revolution First Essence RX contains the same active class for $29.90 vs $115. 1 ferment-family candidate ranked against the original. Honest verdict: format (essence vs. serum) and ferment priority both differ — read the caveats.
Read the report →The 2:4:2 ratio (2% ceramides, 4% cholesterol, 2% fatty acids) is real barrier-repair science — cholesterol-dominant, targeting aging skin. CeraVe delivers the same three lipid classes for $17 vs $148. 1 ceramide+cholesterol+fatty-acid candidate ranked. Honest verdict: the ratio is evidence-grounded; no head-to-head trial proves it beats a well-formulated generic.
Read the report →The signal peptides are real but undisclosed-% near the bottom of a 47-ingredient INCI. Revolution Pro Miracle Cream was explicitly designed as the dupe — copper peptide, hyaluronic acid, shea butter — for $14 vs $100. 3 peptide moisturizer candidates ranked. Honest verdict: you are paying for brand, scent, and texture.
Read the report →Nine peptides, fragrance-free, silicone-free — the formula was never the problem. The brand collapsed 65% in Q1 2025. Naturium shares the Matrixyl 3000 pair (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tetrapeptide-7) for $19 vs $68. 3 alternatives tested. Honest verdict: the stack is real, the brand is in freefall, the dupe is incomplete.
Read the report →The P50 1970 is built around phenol — a keratolytic restricted in US/EU cosmetics. No mass-market formula can replicate it. 4 acid toner alternatives ranked against the $56 original. Honest verdict: there is no P50 dupe. What exists is effective daily acid exfoliation for $10.
Read the report →Crystal Retinal 10 is 0.1% encapsulated retinaldehyde — the most potent OTC retinoid. 3 retinal serums ranked against the $109 original. Winner: Geek & Gorgeous A-Game discloses the same 0.1% for $20.
Read the report →2% salicylic acid is the OTC maximum and a commodity active. 3 formulas ranked against the $36.50 cult exfoliant — The Ordinary discloses the same 2% for $6.70.
Read the report →A five-acid pad at ~$3 a use. No exact dupe of the blend, but The Ordinary Glycolic 7% does the daily-resurfacing job for $13.50 vs the $94 original.
Read the report →It's 10% azelaic acid — a disclosed, commodity active. The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% discloses the exact same number for $12.20 vs the $27.30 original. Identical active; you pay the premium for a richer, more soothing base.
Read the report →It's 10% niacinamide — a disclosed, commodity active. The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% discloses the exact same number for $6 (bigger bottle) vs the $34.30 original — about an eighth the price per gram. The premium buys a real brightening/antioxidant supporting cast, not a stronger dose.
Read the report →It's 2% alpha arbutin — a disclosed, commodity brightening active. The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA discloses the exact same number for $11.50 vs the $25 original. Identical hero active at the lowest sticker; COSRX's premium buys a bigger bottle and a fuller brightening stack (niacinamide, tranexamic acid, glutathione), not a stronger dose.
Read the report →Adapalene 0.1% is an FDA-fixed drug concentration — every brand's tube is the same drug. Differin costs the least per gram once you account for tube size; the cheapest sticker (Acne Free) isn't the cheapest per gram.
Read the report →A 100% squalane oil is one molecule. Good Molecules sells the identical thing, same 30 mL size, for about a quarter of Biossance's price per mL.
Read the report →The same stabilized 3% avobenzone chemistry as Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch, for about a third of the price per mL. The premium buys the "melt-in milk" texture, not different UVA protection.
Read the report →The Ordinary discloses a HIGHER 7% glycolic acid for under half the price — not a gentler match. Honest verdict: stay with Pixi's buffered 5% if you're new to glycolic acid.
Read the report →Blue Lizard discloses the identical 8% titanium dioxide plus MORE zinc oxide, for less than a third of the price. TiZO2's premium buys its primer-like matte finish, arguably not stronger protection.
Read the report →NIOD's 4-peptide network is undisclosed in concentration. The Ordinary discloses 1% for the shared molecule (Copper Tripeptide-1 / GHK-Cu) in its own different peptide stack, for about a quarter of the price.
Read the report →The Ordinary discloses 2% of a broader three-form hyaluronic acid complex, fragrance- and dye-free, for under half the price — but it's a serum, not a stand-alone moisturizer. Check the format before you swap.
Read the report →Honest verdict: NEOGEN is the rare bakuchiol serum that discloses a number — 100ppm (0.01%), one to two orders of magnitude below studied retinol-alternative doses. Transparent and cheap; not confirmed equivalent.
Read the report →Blue Lizard discloses a HIGHER 10% zinc oxide than EltaMD's own 9% — not a diluted copy — for well under a third of the price. The tint and niacinamide are what the premium buys.
Read the report →Paula's Choice discloses 1% retinol; CeraVe confirms retinol at a comparable INCI position but never discloses a number. Honest verdict: real active, unverified strength.
Read the report →The highest disclosed ectoin dose in the catalog. The INKEY List (2%) and Abib (1%) both disclose real ectoin — at meaningfully lower concentrations. Honest verdict: no strength match, just cheaper alternatives.
Read the report →PanOxyl discloses a HIGHER 10% benzoyl peroxide than CeraVe's 4% — in the same foaming-wash format, for less. CeraVe's ceramide + niacinamide base is the real reason to pay more.
Read the report →No product here discloses a centella percentage. SKIN1004's 3-ingredient Ampoule shares the identical extract token at position 1 of 3 — versus Dr. Jart+'s own 35th of 36. Honest verdict: read the ingredient positions, not an invented number.
Read the report →COSRX lists snail secretion filtrate as ingredient #1; MIZON lists it 3rd of 26. Neither brand discloses a lab-verified percentage, but COSRX's placement is not a diluted copy — for well under MIZON's price.
Read the report →Both are FDA Drug Facts sunscreens — no cosmetic-INCI guesswork. e.l.f. SKIN Suntouchable discloses three of four filters at near-identical percentages for about a third of the price. Honest verdict: SPF 40 vs 35 is a real, tested gap the matching filters don't erase.
Read the report →The Ordinary's Vitamin C Suspension discloses a HIGHER 23% of the identical L-ascorbic acid form for about a fifth of the price — not diluted, just a different, grittier water-free vehicle.
Read the report →Naturium discloses a HIGHER 5% tranexamic acid than Paula's Choice's own disclosed 3% — real overlap on two of three actives. Honest verdict: no bakuchiol on the dupe side at all.
Read the report →Paula's Choice discloses the identical 3% tranexamic acid and 5% niacinamide for about half the $115 price — but drops kojic acid and HEPES entirely. Honest verdict: exact overlap on 2 of 4 actives, not a full match.
Read the report →Both disclose the identical 1% retinol — the same molecule, the same dose. Paula's Choice matches it for about half the $102 price. Honest caveat: the original's microencapsulated delivery is unreplicated.
Read the report →03 / Browse by ingredient
Effective concentration, pH, derivative ladders — every claim sourced. 3 dossiers, more in research.
The gold-standard brightening antioxidant — if you nail the formulation (pH under 3.5, 10-20%, ferulic acid present, opaque airless packaging), it is one of the most clinically supported topical actives in skincare.
The ingredient that makes your vitamin C serum actually work — its own solo resume is solid but modest; it's a power-up, not a headliner.
Vitamin E is the reliable second chair your vitamin C serum can't play without — but pure vitamin E oil on its own is the skincare myth dermatologists most want to retire.
04 / Most researched
Ranked by depth of aggregated consensus — where the evidence is deepest right now.
05 / Decide what to use
The library tells you what's true; these tell you what to do.