Ingredient dossier Nº 021 / The verified record
Centella Asiatica (Cica)
CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT
Effective concentration, the pH it needs, how the derivatives compare, stability in the bottle, and the open questions — every scientific claim on this page links to its source.
- skin conditioning
- soothing
- antioxidant
- anti-inflammatory (cosmetic category: skin-conditioning/soothing)
- wound-healing support
- barrier support
Editorial verdict / Social intelligence
The most credible botanical for calming irritated, barrier-damaged skin — but its anti-aging hype outruns the evidence. 1
- Beauty benefit
- Centella asiatica (Cica) is the soothing, barrier-repair hero of sensitive, redness-prone, and irritated skin. Its triterpenes — chiefly asiaticoside and madecassoside — drive anti-inflammatory, wound-healing, and hydration benefits that are among the best-evidenced of any botanical skincare ingredient.
- Does it work
- Yes for the core claims, with honest limits. RCTs show cica accelerates post-procedure healing and reduces erythema (post-laser RCT), a madecassoside moisturizer matched a low-potency corticosteroid for post-laser recovery, and a barrier-hydration trial is solid; the anti-inflammatory mechanism is well-characterised in vitro. The collagen and anti-wrinkle claims are weaker: a systematic review found probable wrinkle benefit but flagged weak study reporting and a lack of extract standardisation. That standardisation gap is the practical catch — products vary widely in which centellosides they contain and at what dose, so 'centella asiatica' on a label does not guarantee the clinical-trial effect. Contact allergy is rare but documented. See the science below →
Consensus strength
StrongDermatology and editorial consensus is near-universal that cica is a first-line botanical for sensitive, post-procedure, and barrier-compromised skin, with soothing and wound-healing claims backed by multiple RCTs. Anti-aging, collagen, and anti-wrinkle claims are consistently hedged as preclinical or low-quality-RCT territory, compounded by extract-standardisation variability.
01 / What it does
What it does
Centella asiatica is a tropical herb whose biological activity in skin is attributed primarily to four pentacyclic triterpene compounds: asiaticoside and madecassoside (glycosidic saponins) and their aglycone forms, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Together these constitute the 'TECA' (titrated extract of Centella asiatica) standardized fraction. The triterpenes stimulate type I and III collagen synthesis in dermal fibroblasts through upregulation of collagen-related gene expression and extracellular matrix accumulation — a mechanism documented from both in vitro fibroblast studies and rat wound models. Separately, madecassoside and asiaticoside exhibit anti-inflammatory activity: madecassoside suppresses NF-κB-mediated cytokine release and inhibits Cutibacterium (Propionibacterium) acnes-driven inflammation, while TECA modulates microRNA profiles in UVB-irradiated fibroblasts, reducing photodamage signals. These combined properties explain the widespread 'Cica' positioning in products targeting sensitive, redness-prone, irritated, or post-procedure skin. Antioxidant activity is documented but is secondary to the soothing and collagen-stimulating mechanisms. The cosmetic literature typically uses whole-plant extracts standardized to these four triterpenes, and the concentration and ratio of actives varies considerably between commercial preparations.
- Study Centella asiatica triterpenes (asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, madecassic acid) stimulate extracellular matrix accumulation and collagen synthesis in dermal fibroblasts and in rat experimental wounds. 1
- Study Centella asiatica triterpenoids alter gene expression in human fibroblasts, upregulating collagen synthesis and extracellular matrix pathways. 2
- Study Titrated extract of Centella asiatica (TECA) provides a UVB-protective anti-inflammatory effect in human dermal fibroblasts by modulating microRNA expression profiles. 9
- Study Madecassoside has Cutibacterium (Propionibacterium) acnes-related anti-inflammation and skin-hydration activities in in vitro models. 17
- Study Centella asiatica has documented roles in cosmetology including anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and wound-healing support through its triterpene content. 11
- Study Asiaticoside and madecassoside demonstrate multiple therapeutic and pharmacological activities including anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and collagen-stimulating effects relevant to skin. 23
02 / Effective concentration
What percentage actually works
Effective range
0.1–5% whole extract
No single clinically validated minimum-effective cosmetic concentration has been established. Most studied formulations contain ~0.5–5% whole extract or standardized TECA. Products are usually labelled by extract concentration, not individual triterpene content.
Centella asiatica is used as a whole extract or as a standardized titrated extract (TECA) containing a defined ratio of asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid. Cosmetic products are generally labelled by extract concentration rather than individual triterpene concentration. Clinical wound-healing and anti-inflammatory effects in humans have most often been demonstrated with standardized extract in topical vehicles, including a split-face RCT after laser resurfacing. No robust dose-response studies exist to define a minimum effective cosmetic concentration, and most products do not disclose triterpene content.
- Study A hydrogel formulation of the titrated extract of Centella asiatica retained pharmacological activity, with the triterpene fraction as the bioactive component. 3
- Study Asiaticoside-loaded ultradeformable vesicles improved collagen biosynthesis both in vitro and in vivo, demonstrating delivery-dependent efficacy. 7
- Study A standardized Centella asiatica extract applied topically after laser resurfacing accelerated wound healing in a split-face, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. 19
One honest caveat Most mechanistic evidence is in vitro (cell culture) or animal (rat/mouse wound and dermatitis models); translation to human skin outcomes at cosmetic concentrations is not rigorously validated in large RCTs.
03 / pH requirement
The pH it needs
Target pH
No strict pH gate; formulation pH is a stability consideration
Unlike alpha-hydroxy acids or ascorbic acid, Centella asiatica extract and its triterpene actives do not require a low-pH environment for skin penetration or activation. The triterpenes are lipophilic pentacyclic structures that partition into the stratum corneum independently of ionization state. Formulation pH instead influences extract stability and solubility — the glycosidic saponins can hydrolyze under strongly acidic or alkaline conditions, so a near-neutral to slightly acidic pH (roughly 5–7) is generally used for stability, consistent with typical skincare ranges. No clinical evidence mandates a specific pH for efficacy.
04 / Derivative ladder
How the derivatives compare
Every derivative trades a measure of proven activity for stability or gentleness. Skin conversion is the question that matters — a more stable molecule only helps if your skin can turn it back into the active form.
Centella Asiatica (Cica) has no meaningfully used cosmetic derivative ladder — it is formulated as the free acid itself. That is the form the research below was run on, so there is no conversion step to discount.
05 / Stability & storage
Stability in the bottle
Centella asiatica triterpenes are moderately stable under typical cosmetic conditions, with several considerations. Light: triterpene saponins and phenolic co-constituents can degrade with prolonged UV exposure, so opaque or UV-protective packaging is preferred. Oxidation: phenolic co-constituents are susceptible to oxidative degradation, and antioxidant co-formulants (e.g., tocopherol) extend shelf life. pH extremes: the glycosidic bonds in asiaticoside and madecassoside can hydrolyze at very low or very high pH, releasing the aglycone acids and changing the biological profile. Heat: extract quality degrades with prolonged high manufacturing temperatures. The standardized TECA fraction is generally more shelf-stable than crude whole-plant extract.
- Study Formulation approach (e.g., a hydrogel system for the titrated extract) influences the stability and maintained pharmacological activity of Centella asiatica preparations. 3
In practice Buy it in an opaque, airless, or amber container, store it cool and out of the light, and treat a colour shift toward orange or brown as the signal to replace it — the molecule is telling you it has already oxidised.
06 / How to use it
How to actually use Centella Asiatica (Cica)
- When
- AM/PM — Soothing step after cleansing, or to buffer actives.
- Pairs well with
- niacinamide, ceramides, any irritating active (to calm it).
- Apply apart from
- Nothing major — it layers comfortably with most actives.
- What to look for
- Look for madecassoside / asiaticoside or "TECA" on the label.
- Heads-up
- Very gentle and calming — ideal alongside retinoids or acids to reduce irritation. Vegan.
Practical guidance for routine placement — not a substitute for a dermatologist’s advice for your skin.
07 / The database
Centella Asiatica (Cica): measured product rankings coming soon
Ranked by $ per gram of active — what the working ingredient actually costs you, not the sticker price. Rows we have reviewed in full link through; the rest are data points from the same crawl.
Buy SKIN1004 on Amazon $13.00 Top-ranked pick · affiliate link
No measured products yet — this active's price-per-gram rankings will appear here as products are added.
In the meantime, see how to use Centella Asiatica (Cica) and what to look for on a label .
Contains it, but doesn't disclose a percentage: SKIN1004 SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Asiatica 100 Ampoule ; PURITO PURITO Centella Unscented Serum ; Dr. Jart+ Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Color Correcting Treatment SPF 30
08 / Safety
Is it safe?
Cosmetic Ingredient Review status
Centella asiatica-derived ingredients are used widely in cosmetics and considered well tolerated at typical use levels. The formal Cosmetic Ingredient Review report is not indexed in PubMed as a primary article and is therefore not cited here as a PMID; refer to the CIR (cir-safety.org) for the formal assessment.
Centella asiatica extract is very well tolerated by the large majority of users and has a long history of traditional use. The primary documented safety concern is allergic contact dermatitis (ACD), which is rare but established: case reports and series document sensitization to Centella asiatica extract, including in cosmetic-product users, more often in people with atopic predisposition or multiple plant allergies. The responsible allergen(s) have not been definitively identified; saponin/centelloid fractions are suspected. No photosensitization, systemic toxicity, or carcinogenicity has been demonstrated at cosmetic use levels. Patch testing before extended use is advisable for reactive skin.
- Study Allergic contact dermatitis from Centella asiatica extract has been documented in recent clinical case reports, confirming it as a rare but real sensitization risk. 24
- Study Allergic contact dermatitis due to Centella asiatica extract was documented in earlier case reports. 14
- Study The titrated extract of Centella asiatica (TECA) has a favorable clinical safety profile across microcirculatory, biomolecular, and vascular applications. 5
09 / The limits of the evidence
What we don't know yet
Most of what you read about this ingredient is stated with more certainty than the evidence earns. Here is exactly where the record thins out — so you can weigh the claims above for yourself.
- Extract standardization varies enormously: crude whole-plant extract, TECA (defined 4-triterpene ratio), and isolated asiaticoside or madecassoside are all sold under the 'Centella asiatica' label with very different active profiles — results from one form do not transfer reliably to another.
- Most mechanistic evidence is in vitro (cell culture) or animal (rat/mouse wound and dermatitis models); translation to human skin outcomes at cosmetic concentrations is not rigorously validated in large RCTs.
- No topical dose-response has been established — it is unknown whether a low extract % differs meaningfully from a high one in human skin, and most products do not disclose triterpene content.
- Many clinical studies use multi-ingredient formulations (Centella plus ceramides, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, galactomyces, etc.), so the Centella-specific contribution cannot be isolated.
- A meaningful portion of the wound-healing/vascular literature (especially TECA) is oral dosing, which has different pharmacokinetics from topical use; cosmetic marketing often cites this without noting the route difference.
- Long-term human RCT data on photoaging or wrinkle reduction specifically attributable to Centella are sparse; the wrinkle systematic review judged available data generally low quality.
- The allergen identity in Centella contact dermatitis has not been definitively characterized, making specific avoidance/cross-reactivity advice for sensitized individuals difficult.
10 / What people say
What formulators and users say
What works
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Madecassoside significantly reduced pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-1β production and inhibited TLR2 expression and blocked nuclear translocation of NF-κB in P. acnes-stimulated immune cells. Study
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The ECa 233 treated side exhibited significantly less erythema index with significantly higher improvements in skin erythema at days 2, 4, and 7 along with reduced crusting on day 2. Study
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C. asiatica and ceramide can improve skin barrier hydration in order to prevent the risk of contact dermatitis in batik workers. Study
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Used at 0.2%, Madecassoside reduces redness and peeling in skin with light atopic dermatitis as well as itching in psoriasis-prone skin. Editorial
- Some Stimulates collagen and GAG synthesis in lab studies (supportive, preclinical) 10
It stimulates GAGs production as well as collagen I synthesis, suggesting benefits for skin structure and hydration, with well established wound healing and antioxidant activities. Editorial
What to know
- Some Anti-aging / anti-wrinkle benefit is probable but the evidence is weakened by poor study reporting and a lack of extract standardisation 6
Cochrane risk of bias was generally low, reporting was weak, and lack of C. asiatica standardization prevents general application. Study
- Some Clinical formulas often combine cica with other actives, so its isolated contribution is hard to attribute 2
The moisturizer with anti-inflammatory ingredients could be a novel treatment modality for reduction of postablative laser downtime by using nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory agents. Study
- few Rare but documented allergic contact dermatitis to Centella asiatica extract 7
Allergic contact dermatitis from Centella asiatica extract and fragrance allergens: Report of two patients from Turkey. Study
What you'd only know from the reviews
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Madecassoside and asiaticoside are not interchangeable: madecassoside is the dominant anti-inflammatory / post-procedure healing compound, while asiaticoside drives more of the collagen and antioxidant pathway. Judge a cica product by which centelloside it discloses and at what dose, not just by 'centella asiatica' on the INCI list. 910
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11 / Questions
Frequently asked
- What is Centella asiatica (Cica) and what makes it active in skincare?
- Centella asiatica is a small creeping herb used for centuries in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine for wound healing. Its skincare activity comes from four pentacyclic triterpenes — asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid — collectively the TECA (titrated extract) fraction. These stimulate collagen-related gene expression in dermal fibroblasts, modulate inflammatory pathways, and provide antioxidant activity. 'Cica' products most often contain the whole or standardized extract. 1123213
- Does Centella asiatica actually soothe redness and irritation in sensitive skin?
- Anti-inflammatory activity is one of its better-characterized effects. Madecassoside suppresses inflammatory signalling and C. acnes-related inflammation in cell culture, and TECA reduced inflammation in an animal model of allergic dermatitis. A post-laser-resurfacing RCT showed accelerated healing with a standardized Centella extract, and a madecassoside-containing moisturizer performed comparably to a low-potency topical corticosteroid for post-procedure reactions in a split-face randomized trial. Caveat: much mechanistic work is in vitro or animal, and large RCTs in sensitive-skin populations specifically are limited. 1715191810
- Does Centella asiatica boost collagen production?
- Laboratory and preclinical evidence supports it. Centella triterpenes upregulate collagen-related gene expression in human fibroblasts and stimulate extracellular-matrix accumulation in rat wound models, and asiaticoside-loaded carriers improved collagen biosynthesis in vitro and in vivo. Clinical evidence in aged human skin specifically is limited: a systematic review/network meta-analysis on wrinkles judged the benefit probable but the underlying data quality generally low. 127208
- Is Centella asiatica useful for acne scars or post-acne marks?
- There is supportive but limited evidence. Asiaticoside suppresses TGF-β/Smad signalling and excess collagen in keloid fibroblasts, and madecassoside suppresses keloid-fibroblast migration — the pathways implicated in pathological scarring. Separately, madecassoside inhibits UV-induced melanin synthesis by blocking upstream inflammation, suggesting possible benefit for post-inflammatory marks. A small clinical study found a Centella-containing serum improved post-acne hyperpigmentation, but the multi-ingredient formula prevents attribution. In practice Centella is used in post-acne products mainly for soothing. 461221
- Does Centella asiatica support the skin barrier?
- Yes, with modest direct evidence. A double-blind trial in occupationally barrier-compromised workers found a Centella-and-ceramide preparation improved barrier-function markers versus control, and a moisturizing fluid containing Centella stem-cell extract showed 24-hour hydration improvement in a randomized intra-subject study. The proposed mechanism is collagen/ECM support plus reduced barrier-disrupting inflammation. This barrier-specific evidence is smaller than the wound-healing and anti-inflammatory evidence. 2216
- Is Centella asiatica safe? Can it cause allergies?
- It is very well tolerated by most users. The main established concern is allergic contact dermatitis, which is rare but real — multiple case reports document it, including in cosmetic users, with the sensitizing fraction not conclusively identified. People with atopic dermatitis or multiple plant allergies are at somewhat higher risk. Large TECA trials show a favorable safety profile. Patch-test before extended use if your skin is reactive. 24145
12 / References
Sources
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